Tikal, Lake Petén Itzá & the Island Town

Boarding the local lancha as the sky glowed orange over Lake Peten Itza was perhaps one of the most memorable moments of my trip and the best way to experience my first stop in Guatemala. In that moment, as we glided across the mirror-like water, the long journey from Caye Caulker in Belize felt like a distant memory, and it was the first time that day that everything felt still.  

Flores marked the beginning of the motorbike adventures through Central America, but before any riding could begin, getting here had been a journey in itself – navigating a mix of boats, buses and taxis to arrive in this remote corner of the country.

Looking back at the twinkling lights that illuminated the waterside as we drifted away from Flores Island towards San Miguel, I could breathe a sigh of relief and finally feel that spark of excitement to explore. 

As the gateway to the ancient Mayan ruins of Tikal – a place I had had on my bucket list for years, I could tell immediately that Flores was a popular stop-off point for those eager to explore the impressive Mayan ruins too.

I had caught a glimpse of the cobblestoned streets lined with vibrant cafes and bars playing familiar music, a lively atmosphere I would come to appreciate in the week that followed. 

Get oriented: island location

Before arriving in Flores, I knew very little about what was in store, apart from visiting the world-famous Tikal ruins. Yet I quickly came to learn that it was much closer to the border with Belize than places I was more familiar with, like Antigua, Lake Atitlan or Guatemala City. This made it an obvious starting point for me, since it was easy to get to from Caye Caulker, the popular island destination in Belize.

Flores sits in the far north of Guatemala in the region of Peten, a vast jungle-heavy area that is well known for the ruins of the ancient Mayan city of Tikal.

It feels noticeably different from the rest of the country and is far more remote than the more popular Guatemalan hot spots. Because of that, Flores is usually added to an itinerary either at the beginning or the end of a trip, and makes a perfect stop-off point for those arriving from or travelling to Belize or Quintana Roo, Mexico (like me). 

What’s worth knowing before you arrive is that Flores is made up of a few different areas, yet the main hub is Flores Island, connected to the mainland by a short causeway. Knowing this will make it easier to decide where to base yourself, but I will dive deeper into these neighbourhoods a little later on.

How to get there

If you are considering visiting Flores, then you may be wondering how to get there, and despite being remote compared to other areas of the country, it is not that far removed logistically. The options will greatly depend on which direction you are coming from, so I will break down the various options here.

From Belize or Mexico overland

This was the only viable route for me since I had flown into Cancun and travelled overland to Belize with my dog – and I have to say it was quite the adventure.

There are plenty of local buses and taxis in Belmopan (Belize’s capital) that can take you to the Guatemalan border.

After the border, you can easily get to Flores (and beyond) with a local Guatemalan bus. If you are coming directly from Mexico, many backpackers cross into Guatemala from Palenque (home to another impressive Mayan ruin), which is about 8 hours from Flores. 

 

From within Guatemala

If you are already in Guatemala, you can catch an overnight bus from places like Antigua or Guatemala City, which takes about 8 hours and is a popular budget-friendly choice for backpackers.

The good news is that Flores has an international airport (Mundo Maya International Airport), and a domestic flight from Guatemala City can cost under $100 and takes just one hour – ideal if you need to save valuable time.

Flying from abroad

Flying into Mundo Maya International Airport is a popular choice for those coming from various parts of Mexico, the USA and Europe.

It is worth noting that there are no direct flights to Flores from abroad; instead, you will have a stopover in Guatemala City before continuing. For me, this would have been the perfect time-saving option, but flying with a dog is complicated, so this option was ruled out. 

 

Best neighborhoods & where to stay

What I came to learn was that choosing which part of Flores to stay in can really shape your experience. Each area is quite different, and they can suit various types of travellers, whether you want to be close to the action on Flores Island or enjoy a little slice of paradise across the lake in San Miguel. 

Before arriving, a friend had recommended a few accommodation options in San Miguel, and having done some research, I decided this would be the perfect spot for me. Yes, it was a more affordable area, but it also had the advantage of boasting stunning views over Flores Island, which you cannot see when you are staying on the island itself.

Here is a breakdown of the three main areas to stay and what kind of vibe you can expect. 

Flores Island

Flores Island is ultimately the main hub of Flores, joined to Santa Elena by a short causeway. This is where you will find an eclectic mix of lakeside bars, restaurants and cafes which truly make it such a special place to explore.

You’ll often catch a few digital nomads taking advantage of the scenic lakefront views while getting some work done, and this is the best area to find happy hours, live music, and to mingle with other travellers. Staying here can be pricier than other areas, but you can usually find good value dorm rooms out of peak season. 

Our selected stay on Flores Island:

• $ Natz Hotel – for the cheapest bed in an epic location
• $$ Casa Maya Itza – owners of this homestay provide a comfy stay and will sort your Tikal logistics
• $$ Umberto’s glamping tent (editor’s pick) – for a unique stay in a jungle tent. The owners will help you arrange Tikal or Yaxha tours
• $$$ Hotel Casazul – for a room with a view without jumping to a higher price bracket

Santa Elena

If you are arriving in Flores by bus or by plane, you will arrive at the Central Bus Station or the Mundo Maya International Airport in Santa Elena. It is just a short walk across the bridge to Flores Island, but it has a completely different vibe.

This is the more local area where you will find local supermarkets, businesses, markets and day-to-day activities taking place. This is an excellent place to buy groceries (or even a motorbike if you are in the market for one), since it is where the locals get things done.

There are quite a few accommodation options scattered around this area, which can save you money while being close to Flores Island and is ideal if you prefer more authenticity without the feeling of being isolated. 

Our selected stay in Santa Elena:

• $ Nakum Hotel – best budget option if you don’t mind being slightly off the island (just across the bridge from Flores)
• $$ Hotel del Patio – a quiet base with a pool and a colonial courtyard (see photo below)
• $$$ Hotel Casona del Lago – best if waking up to a view matters to you

San Miguel

San Miguel is an incredibly scenic, laid-back area that is located across the lake from Flores Island, accessed by boat from one of the many docks.

Here, you will find a mix of hotels, hostels and local guesthouses, but very few supermarkets or even street vendors. While it can be accessed via a dirt road, the boat ride to San Miguel is certainly not something to miss out on; in fact, this was one of the best memories I have from Guatemala.

For a week, I took the boat back and forth from Flores Island and almost always caught an incredible sunset – all for around $0.50 one way.

The fact that my guesthouse, Casa Zoila, was located right by the dock made it so practical to hop on and off whenever we wanted. But getting the motorbike on and off this tiny boat certainly added a level of stress I didn’t account for. 

Best accommodation picks in San Miguel:

• $ Casa Zoila – where I stayed (located right by the dock)
• $$ B&B Del Lago – if you want somewhere genuinely personal and off the tourist trail
• $$ Casa Federico – a secluded jungle cabin, surrounded by nature and birdsong (ideal spot to disconnect and unwind)
• $$$ Adra Hostal Peten – lakefront hostel on the shore

Epic things to do in Flores

1. Visit the Tikal Mayan ruins 

Although there are a whole host of things to see and do in beautiful Flores, the ultimate day trip for many is to the nearby Mayan ruins of Tikal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Flores is the closest “main hub” for exploring these ancient ruins, which is why it is often on the radar of backpackers and overlanders.

 

If you are planning a trip to Mexico and Central America, chances are you will include a few of the top Mayan ruins on your bucket list, namely Chichen Itza in Mexico, Copan in Honduras and of course Tikal in Guatemala. 

At this point, I was the new owner of a local 125cc Suzuki, and my first day trip from Flores on my own set of wheels was the almost 130km (80 miles) round trip north to Tikal. That said, you certainly don’t need your own transport to reach this impressive place; in fact, it takes very little planning to visit, since there are an abundance of tour companies and local transport options available to you. 

So, how can you reach Tikal from Flores Island?

 

• Local bus: You can take a local bus from Santa Elena central bus station, across the causeway from Flores Island. This takes around 2 hours each way and costs approximately $7-$10. For more convenience, a tourist shuttle also leaves from the bus stop in Flores. Both leave very early, so book the day before so you know the details in advance.
• Day tour: Day tours are ultra-convenient options which take the hassle out of navigating the logistics yourself. This is a popular option offered by many hostels and local tour companies, so shop around to get the best deal – never settle for the first option. Prices will depend on whether you opt for a guided tour or just the return transfer, but expect to pay approximately $70. 
• Own transport: If you have your own set of wheels, whether it’s a rental car, a motorbike or a campervan, then you can be more flexible with your journey. You can opt for a nearby campsite if you have a campervan or even basic camping equipment, or take advantage of the local hotels like The Jungle Lodge Hotel, Jungle Lodge Hostel or Hotel Tikal Inn, conveniently nestled beside the National Park. 

2. Explore Flores Island on foot

If you value a welcoming atmosphere, quaint cobblestoned streets and stunning lakeside vistas as much as me, then you will love this Guatemalan town. The streets are compact and colourful, lined with cosy cafes, street vendors and local shops.

 

I would recommend an afternoon stroll paired with some lunch, followed by tasty happy hour cocktails overlooking the lake as the sun sets. There is a great ambience around town at golden hour, and you will have your pick of great lakeside bars and restaurants to choose from. 

3. Enjoy Lake Peten

The lake is at the centre of everything, so it makes sense to enjoy it while you are there. If you don’t fancy a swim or renting a kayak, then I would suggest taking one of the local boats across the lake and back at sunset, to see the island illuminate at a distance.

 

Getting out on the water as the sun goes down is one of the best things to do, and if you are staying on the San Miguel side, as I did, then you will be lucky enough to experience this stunning view every day. 

4. Visit the Yaxha Mayan Ruins

Where to eat/drink (& what dishes to try)

Since Flores was my first destination in Guatemala, it was also my first Guatemalan food experience. I had heard from friends that I needed to try the super burrito, which could be found close to Flores Peten Park.

 

Needless to say, this gigantic super burrito was my first meal in Guatemala, and it was certainly not my last – it was delicious. Similar to a Mexican burrito but with a Guatemalan twist, this was my go-to indulgent snack whenever I was in the area, and priced at under $4 for two, I just couldn’t resist. 

Some of the best places to eat include:

And to drink?

Flores has the kind of vibe that makes you want to sit back and enjoy a happy hour cocktail as the sunsets over the lake, while listening to local music. The setting is so perfect that I felt like I could have enjoyed this setting for much longer than a week.

 

You will notice plenty of inviting bars, many of which promote drink specials, and if you are privy to a delicious sundowner and a cheeky taco or two, then you will be in your element on Flores Island. 

Some of the best spots for a sundowner include:

Overall, as someone who did not know what to expect from my first destination in Guatemala, I loved the go-with-the-flow atmosphere of this town, where eating and drinking didn’t take much planning. You could follow the music, seek out ambient spots and keep your eyes peeled for great meal or drink offers around town, so every day was a different experience. 

What dishes to try? 

There is more to Flores than the super burrito – although I am a big fan. You will find an eclectic mix of cuisines here, which makes it a great place for first-time travellers who want to ease themselves into a new culture and new flavours.

 

For me, I love to dive right in, and one of the first proper dishes I tried was the country’s national dish, “pepián”.

Pepián can be found almost everywhere that is local and authentic, especially in the food section of the local markets. You can expect a thick, rich stew usually made with chicken, which is slow-cooked in a rich tomato-based sauce, and a blend of spices.

What really sets it apart, though, is the use of toasted sesame and pumpkin seeds, which are ground down to give the sauce its signature depth and slightly nutty flavour. I had come to learn that not every pepián tastes the same, so it is well worth trying it as often as you can around the country. 

 

As well as Pepian, you should try local dishes like:

• Kak’ik – a traditional Mayan turkey soup that is completely different to pepián. It is lighter, yet still rich with a deep red broth comprising tomatoes, chilli and herbs.
• Grilled elote – corn on the cob is sold on almost every street corner
• Tamales – these are different to Mexican tamales and are often softer and wrapped in banana leaves.
• Jocon – another hearty stew, which is a tangy, green colored dish that is lighter than pepián.

Best time to visit

I visited in October, right at the tail end of the rainy season, and although I did experience some heavy downpours from time to time, it was not a terrible time to visit. Prices were lower than usual, and we rented a small pet-friendly apartment in San Miguel for the same price as a hostel. 

With that in mind, the best time to visit Flores is November – April, when you can enjoy the best weather. You can still save money by travelling in the shoulder season and avoiding public holidays, since Flores is a popular place for locals to visit, too.

 

Since one of the best features of Flores is the lake, this is the best time to kayak or visit the beach – in my case, my only beach day was interrupted by a tropical downpour, which was far from enjoyable. 

Tips & advice

Here are a few things I wish I had known before visiting Flores

• Plan your trip to Tikal and arrive early or even the night before if possible, to allow plenty of time to explore. 
• While San Miguel offers a more local vibe, I would say that spending a few days on Flores Island would be a great balance rather than being isolated on the other side of the lake for a whole week. 
• Learn some basic Spanish before arriving, especially if you plan on taking public transport or doing local tours, which might only be delivered in Spanish. It also helps you integrate with locals and get tips and recommendations. 
• Don’t be afraid to try street food. Guatemala has some delicious options, and Flores has a few vendors who serve up cheap local bites. I always asked what the locals were eating and then ordered that. 
• Dining options in San Miguel (where I stayed) are very limited, and you will generally need to rely on a handful of local vendors who don’t always have a schedule. However, boats to Flores Island are frequent, and you will always find somewhere to eat or drink here, since this is the main hub. 
• For a local experience, spend a day at Playa Chechenal, which can be reached on foot from San Miguel or by boat from Flores Island. I spent an afternoon here enjoying the beach with my dog and met a group of locals who were cooking up a barbecue alongside some drinks from the beach bar. There is a small entrance fee (about $2) to visit the beach, but it is worth it to spend the day away from the tourist hub. 
• Tikal is much more vast than most people realise, and I found myself rushing around for over 4 hours, without getting to see everything before the site closed. I would advise arriving early and spending the entire day there, since there are so many trails to follow, structures to witness and signs to read.

Where to go next:

From Flores, most travellers continue south to the natural wonder that is Semuc Champey, a long but rewarding journey into one of the country’s most striking natural landscapes.

The direct way takes around 7 hours, but I detoured through the beautiful area of Rio Dulce, before arriving at the cacao farm where I stayed while visiting the stunning jungle pools. 

For more on planning your trip, see our full Guatemala travel guide.